Monday, January 7, 2008

Last days of Thai.

After the trekking trip I had two more days in Chiang Mai. With absolutely no plan, I asked the front desk of my guest house where to go. "Can we help you?" I turned around and a darling woman and who I thought was her daughter were having breakfast in the garden. Kirsten was from Germany and Vicki, not her mother, was from England. They had met the previous day and invited me to go to the market with them. "Sure." The best decision I could've made.

We had the best day. Both women were great but Vicki, at 61 years old, was a crazy, interesting gal. A retired attorney, Vicki was in Thailand starting her second year teaching English in the villages. She had so much energy and spirit and was a total inspiration for living life to its fullest. At one point she stopped at a street vendor and purchased 6 or 7 different kinds of bugs. Vicki and Kirsten tried them all except the cockroach and in the end they were able to convince me to eat some maggots and a small beetle of sorts! We walked for six hours and then split and agreed to meet for dinner. At 7pm we grabbed a Tuk Tuk and headed over to the night market. We had so much fun! Walking and talking and laughing. After returning to our guest house around 11pm we heard music from a neighboring bar. Vicki said, "Let's go where the noise is!" And we headed out for some beers on my last night in Thailand. A great finish!

I had breakfast with Vicki on my last day and she was off to the villages also. Then Kirsten and I walked to Wat Suan Dok in old Chiang Mai. As we were leaving I happened to see a sign that said "Monk Chat". The Monk Chat Program has been running for 6 years giving information about Thai Buddhist culture and exchanging inter-culture between foreign visitors and Thai monks by talking informally. Curious, we sheepishly sat down and started "chatting" with this young monk in his bright orange robes. It was great! We were served tea and could ask him absolutely anything. And we did, for nearly an hour.

I love Chiang Mai. I loved the last four days of the trip so much. I'm happy to be home too.

AND, ITS POSSIBLE I'VE LOST HALF OF MY PHOTOS! Having a minor meltdown about that. Someone I work with is going to try and recover them. In any case, I'd like to post some pictures in the upcoming days.

Sunday, January 6, 2008

Chiang Mai and Hill Trekking

PICTURES TO COME. I forgot my USB in Bangkok.

We hopped into the back of a trekking truck early Saturday morning to start our adventure in the hills of the Bong Duet National park. Joined by a couple from Poland, a couple from Korea, our Thai guide, Dimitri from Greece and then there was little ole me from the states. Everyone spoke English and I was totally amazed by that. It was the language that bound all of us from different parts of the world. I can't believe I don't know another language (very well). Anyway, we rolled along until we were out of the city and into the jungle and mountains. There we began our trek. I have to say, I like hiking and have never really found it to be particularily difficult. This was difficult. The hills were so steep, both in going up and coming down. Our guide, Dat, was so great. He carried a giant knife and cut bamboo walking sticks for us. He also chopped down different fruits and explained things all while singing (in Thai) and whistling happy tunes. The first day we hiked 3.5 hours and visited two different Karen villages -the second was where we spent our night. Our bamboo house was complete with a sleeping room, cooking area and a table. The sleeping room had mats on the floor, mosquito nets from the ceiling and two blankets apiece. The difference in tempurature from Bangkok and Krabi was significant. It was freezing at night! After we unloaded our packs, some took baths in the river. I watched a couple of the villagers and our guide cook us a fantastic dinner. They sat on the floor and chopped vegetables and meat. We ate yellow curry with chicken and potatoes and a vegetable dish with beef. The resources in these villages are amazing. They plant so many things and have chickens, cows, pigs and fruits and vegetables from the jungle. After dinner we could hear people singing in the distance. We asked our guide if we could go to see what it was. Wrapped in blankets we walked through the village to another bamboo building. Inside, by candlelight, were about thirty children and young adults playing guitars and singing in a circle on the floor. They opened their cirlce and were happy to have us join them. I couldn't understand a word they were singing but those moments were some of the most incredible I've ever experienced. Sitting with these people in their simple existence. Knowing that soon I would be pulled back into the world of meetings, going to the gym and non-fat mochas, I sat there and smiled. I felt so lucky. So full of life. So grateful.

In the morning they cooked us eggs from their chickens and sent us on our way. We hiked another two hours to the elephant camp. I had mixed emotions about the elephants as I didn't want to be participating in the commercialization of them. But these elephants were ones used by the villagers to help them build their homes. Somehow I felt, or I justified to myself, that this was okay because these people have been using the elephants for years and its part of their culture. Haley, thoughts? We hopped on and road them down the river for a couple hours. Crazy. They are SO adorable. One of their babies followed us too and was so so so cute. Will post pictures and a great video when I'm back.

The last part of the trek was bamboo rafting. One of the villagers was literally putting the finishing touches on our bamboo raft as we approached. I had no idea what to expect and never could've predicted our rafting journey. The raft is probably 30 feet long and four feet wide. No rails. One coat hanger looking thing near the front for us to hang our packs on. The three guys were given long bamboo sticks to help navigate in the back. The entire two hour ride was spent standing -no life jackets. It was crazy! We stopped and picked up an older woman and child from a riverside village. They needed a ride down the river! The rafting was part fun and part scary...which is part of what makes it fun. During rapids the raft would sink so the water was reaching the middle of my calf. At one point during some rapids the guide was yelling 'Right Side!' to the guys with their sticks, and he meant LEFT. We ended up crashing into a rock where the raft stopped, stuck. He yelled at us to get off the boat and onto the rock. The little girl was screaming and one of the guys grabbed her. The Polish guy fell in and was grabbing onto another rock. Scary. Once most of us were off the raft, it was light enough to loosen from the rock and it started to move. 'Get back on the boat!!' the guide yelled. We all jumped at once onto the very back of the raft as it was passing by and it sunk into the water past my knees. I was totally freaking out. Parts of our raft were broken and cracked as a result of the crash so Dat stopped and found some pieces near the edge of the river and fixed it. So much fun.

I could probably write three times this about the trekking experience. Being with the people from Poland and Korea I learned so much. Our conversations about the world and where they come from were part of what made the experience so great. It was definitely the most incredible thing I've ever done.

In some ways this trip was a struggle for me. I spent a third of it alone (some of that amazing, some lonely) and there were times I felt it lacking in authenticity. That's something I learned about myself and traveling. I need authentic experiences. In the past, whether it was backpacking Europe or visiting both Beth in Japan and Dan in China, authentic experiences came naturally. Spending time in their classrooms and meeting their students, dinners and traditional tea with their friends and colleagues and just spending time with people who LIVE in these areas provided a window into a world a traveler simply cannot replicate. I didn't realize that going into this trip and wasn't prepared in my research to make it authentic. And that's okay! Trips are for learning about a place AND yourself. And in my last days here I can reflect back on great things. Prepared or not, this has been an amazing experience. I'm so grateful for the invitation, Tim!

Wednesday, January 2, 2008

Ko Phi Phi Island.









Just a few pictures. It beautiful. Absolutely picturesque in every way. BUT way too many tourists. Many of which are in their early twenties and walk around wasted and crazy. Its like Cancun for Germans, Swedes, Aussies, South Africans and any origin other than America. Sort of strange really. But as I said, beautiful, and a great place to relax for a few days. The first day we took a longboat and visited the surrounding islands, including the island filmed in the movie The Beach, and checked out the other coasts of Ko Phi Phi Don. The boat was nothing short of fantastic. We also snorkeled and watched the sun set from the water. I felt like I was in a scene from the Goonies or something. The guys left early yesterday as they felt really old and out of place here. I was sad for a brief time, but today I went rock climbing and met some really cool people from Montreal and Germany. Think I made some friends for tonight! Rock climbing was crazy. I've never been before and here I was climbing in the most amazing place. I have to say I wasn't as brave as I'd wanted. I did two thirty foot routes and then nearly conquered a seventy foot climb..until I reached about 65 feet and then couldn't find a place for my foot and freaked out. The guide said I had reached the easy part and the most difficult was behind me. Still...I asked to be lowered. Crap! Too bad most of my photos are vertical or I'd post more climbing ones (can't rotate..or don't know how on this computer). Will post more when I return. Oh, and while we were climbing there were monkeys running around! One came within a foot of me! Crazy little creatures.

Off for now. Not sure if I'll post before returning next week. We'll see.

Friday, December 28, 2007

goodbye Bangkok

We leave for Krabi + Ko Phi Phi tomorrow. I'm so excited to sit and relax in the sunshine and sand. Hoping to do some rock climbing and take a longboat to some of the smaller islands. And read my book.

Today I booked the last three days of my Thailand trip. Dimitri and I are flying from Bangkok to Chiang Mai next Friday. We are staying at the Eagle House and doing one of their two day eco treks through the jungle and Hilltribes. Eagle house is known to be particularly concerned about being respectful of both the environment and the Hilltribes. Everything I've read about their treks is amazing. Here is what our itinerary states: Day 1. Depart Chiang Mai at 9:30am and drive 20 minutes in the trekking truck to the market town of Maemalai where you will buy fresh provisions for the trek. Drive to Mork Fa Waterfall for swimming/lunch. Drive to Mae Sae and hike one and a half hours to hot springs-have a healthy hot medicinal shower. Hike two hours to a Karen Hilltribe village and overnight there. {Insert: Trekkers overnight in the simple bamboo homes of the Hilltribes. Showers are taken in waterfalls or rivers, your bathroom is the jungle. You will be awoken by the dawn chorus and the sound of the rhythmical beat of the Hilltribe women husking rice.) Day Two. Hike 40 minutes to the elephant camp. Then elephant riding, one and a half hours to the Lahu Hilltribe village. Bamboo rafting two hours to Sobkai Shan village. The trekking car will then pick you up and the journey back to Chiang Mai will take about two hours. Trek is through the Bong Duet National Park. They will provide us with rucksacks, mosquito nets and light sleeping bags. I'm so excited!

Wednesday, December 26, 2007

No words.



Today was incredible. May be hard to put into words but I'll do my best. So far Bangkok has put me to the test. Just when I thought I was done with the madness streets, dirty air and chaos and ready for the islands...I have a day like today. We were up early and took a longboat for a two hour peek through the remote canals of the Chao Phraya River. Amazing. Seeing the river "villages" and Thai people out and working or cooking - they wave and smile. Happy as clams in their shacks, some without four walls. Somewhere within the canals the boat driver stopped at an orchid farm. Dad, I took some pictures for you! You can take tips for starting your own orchid farm.


After the longboat we went to see the reclining Buddha at Wat Pho. I loved it..but too many tourists.

From there we wandered. And wandered. And somehow fell upon a gigantic market. I've NEVER seen anything like it. Walking through I thought about taking pictures but nothing could replicate what I was seeing. Starting with flowers. Amazing flowers everwhere and stacks and stacks of them. All around you. Then we moved into the electronics section. Then through the tools and hardware. Then fabric. People everywhere buying goods for their homes...for blocks and blocks. This is where they shop. It was really intense and when we finally hopped into our Tuk Tuk to take us back to our hotel we all chattered in amazement about what we'd just walked through.

Tonight we are heading out for ringside seats to a Thai boxing match. I have absolutely no idea what to expect..but I can't imagine I'll be disappointed.


{Just got yelled at by Tim for spending too much time blogging! Wow, he was like my DAD or something! He practically threatened to put me into a time out. Yikes.}

For the record, this trip has been great in company. Traveling with forty year old men!: one is from Greece and has his doctorate in psychology, another an architect and Tim who is a writer. Its been fun talking about different parts of the globe and I still can't believe how little I know about so many places in our world. We had a long conversation with a fantastic Indian man yesterday. He lives and works here in Bangkok with his wife and family. He had an arranged marriage - Tim asked him if his parents did a good job with the arranging, "Oh yes. Very good." he said. I'm reading the Namesake (finally) and it was interesting hearing about his arranged marriage first-hand. We asked him what he thought of George Bush and he explained he doesn't mind him because people from India typically don't like muslims. ..."they don't see people as brothers. As human to human. They only see non-Muslims" he said. Learning about this part of the world and all of the complications between the different countries is wonderful and hard at the same time. What will come of our war? That's another post...Random ramblings for you!

Tuesday, December 25, 2007

Christmas dinner.

Tonight we had dinner at a place called Cabbages and Condoms. Not only does the restaurant offer excellent food, but they also promote the health and safety aspects of condom use in a fun and amusing manner. All proceeds from the restaurant are used to fund the social development programs of PDA. We sat outside under condom-made lamp globes and a Christmas tree trimmed entirely out of condoms. Below is part of an educational sign posted in the restaurant and I found it hilarious.




Riding around...




For the record, the Thail massage count is up to 3..soon to be 4 today. And sorry the photos are so big in file size. I can't make them smaller and I can't crop them! So you get what you get.

Monday, December 24, 2007

not in "Kansas" anymore






Dimitri and I checked into our new fancy hotel yesterday and relaxed in waiting for Tim and Steve. When we entered the new hotel our eyes were big and round like saucers. Our time at the Atlanta with its sparse rooms and cheap fare was so great. All a person wants and even more than a person in a third world country could ever need. This hotel has 10-12 restaunrants and bars inside and a beautiful gym and spa. Our room alone has two bathrooms, three balconies, a dining room that seats 10, a living room + office, and two flatscreen TVs. Staying here makes our visit seem a bit less like Thailand. I sound negative and I definitely don't mean to be. I'm having an amazing time! I was just surprised at the difference and also at my reaction to that difference. We stayed up late talking and catching up. Let the rest of the trip begin!

Today we took a riverboat taxi upstream to visit some of Bangkok's Wats - or temples/a Buddhist sacred precinct with monks' quarters. We went to one small and less visited Wat and also to the Grand Temple. They are so beautiful! Buddhist monks were walking around in the traditional orange robes and my curiosity was overwhelming. At one point people were gathered, kneeling and chanting.

More yummy food.

Then hour-long Thai foot massages! The massages are so intense and walk a fine line between amazing and painful.

Will try to post some pictures soon. I have taken so many now it may be hard to sift through.

We'll be spending many days here in Bangkok and though there is so much to see I've also been reading about different parts of Thailand. I wish there was a way to also go North and spend some time in the tribal villages. Maybe next time.

Merry Christmas to everyone! {hugs} to you and genuine internet love from me.